Who Is Lok Yeay Mao? The Spirit That Watches Over Kampot
Who is Lok Yeay Mao? Discover the guardian spirit of Kampot, her legends, shrines, and why she still watches over travellers today.
Lok Yeay Mao (Grandmother Mao) is a Neak Ta guardian spirit of Kampot Province. She probably has her origins as an ancient earth spirit who was associated with fertility, dating back to the Funan era (1st-6th centuries). Over the years, she has taken on new roles and stories. Stories about Yeay Mao have been passed down through generations, so you may hear a different version depending on who you ask.
Kampot Province was once much larger than it is today. It was the coastal province, stretching from the south of Vietnam (Mao is still worshipped by the Khmer Krom today) along the coast through Kep and Kampot, up past Kampong Som (Sihanoukville) and into Koh Kong. This area of Cambodia has always been busy with ports and merchants, but hard to reach from the rest of the country. The road between Phnom Penh and the coast forced travelers into the jungles: the Prei (ព្រៃ). It was a dangerous journey, far from the safety of civilization, into the worlds of dangerous animals, monsters, and spirits.
The First Story: Protectress of Dangerous Roads
It’s from this time we get the first stories of Yeay Mao: a protectress of travellers through the wilderness, on their way to Kampot Province.
In this legend, Yeay Mao is the wife of Ta Krohom-Koh (Grandpa Red-Neck). One day, while out hunting, they ran into a tiger. In a panic, they ran in different directions, and Yeay Mao was killed. Her spirit, furious at being abandoned by her husband, remains there to this day, taking revenge on passing travellers. But stop at her shrine, leave her an offering, and she will protect you on your way.
This is why today you’ll find shrines to Yeay Mao at both crossings of these wild areas: at Pich Nil, near the mountain pass on Highway #4 from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, and the other just outside the mountain pass near Chakrei Ting, on Highway #3 from Phnom Penh to Kampot. If you pay attention, you may notice bus drivers take their hands off the wheel and make a quick prayer as they pass by to avoid angering her.
The Second Story: Spirit of the Sea
Kampot Province is famous for its coastline, seafood, and its fishermen. It’s from this aspect we get her second story.
Yeay Mao was the wife of a fisherman. One day, he left to go fishing and never came back. Yeay Mao was pregnant at the time and became worried when her husband hadn’t come home. She stood on the shore waiting for him. First for weeks. Then for months. Finally, in desperation, she boarded a ship to go look for him. However, on their journey, they encountered a horrible storm. The Cambodians believe it’s bad luck for a pregnant woman to be on a ship because it will incite jealousy in the sea spirits. With the lives of the crew at risk, Yeay Mao threw herself into the sea and drowned. Her self-sacrifice meant that she was reborn as a sea spirit and used her powers to calm the storm and save the crew. Today, fishermen still pray to her for protection at sea. You’ll find a statue of her in Kep, on the shore, looking out over the ocean, still waiting for her husband to come back.
The Third Story: Warrior of Cambodia’s Coast
Finally, Yeay Mao is a warrior, a protector of the province. The coast was a popular spot for invasions by Thailand and Vietnam, particularly in the 19th century. It is from this period that another story comes.
Yeay Mao was a powerful woman. She was not only brave but had also sought out the great mythological hermit teacher, Ta Eisei, who lived in the mountains, and studied magic under him. Her husband was a powerful commander, leader of the armies who defended Cambodia’s coast. When the Siamese armies invaded, the Khmer armies were in disarray, and her husband was killed. But Mao took control of the army, and using her magic, turned the blades of grass and tamarind leaves into a supernatural army, and defeated the invaders.
This is why we have the statue on Bokor. She watches over the coast, keeping an eye out for invaders and ready to protect Cambodia from its enemies. (It’s perhaps no coincidence that her statue on Bokor is looking directly at Phu Quoc island.)
The Offerings
If you’ve visited one of her shrines (the nearest is right downtown, next to the old French Governor’s house; the now-closed museum) you may have noticed something else that is strongly associated with Yeay Mao: penises. Cambodians often bring her phallic offerings, both stone lingas and wooden penises, or if you’re the more conservative type, bananas will do. As to why, again, the story changes. It’s certain that, in her ancient animistic beginnings, she was a goddess of soil and fertility. The sailors will tell you she yearns for her husband, and they offer her penises to make her happy. Also, the penis is a sign of strength and power, appropriate for any warrior. People often bring them when they’re hoping to conceive a child.
In a way Yeay Mao’s stories make up the history of Kampot Province: from ancient animistic people, to a land of profitable but dangerous trade routes, a vibrant seafaring tradition, and to a country proudly defending its land.
Visiting Her Shrines
The nearest shrine to Kampot town sits right in the centre, next to the old French Governor’s house where the provincial museum used to be. It’s easy to walk past if you don’t know to look, but worth finding.
Her statue on Bokor Mountain is impossible to miss. She stands at the plateau’s edge, gazing southwest toward the Gulf of Thailand and directly at Phu Quoc island. Seeing her in person is a highlight of any trip to the summit; Mr. Heng is one of the few local guides with a tuk-tuk powerful enough to reach the top comfortably, offering a safe and insightful way to explore the mountain’s secrets.
Frequently Asked
Who is Lok Yeay Mao?
Why is there a giant Lok Yeay Mao statue on Bokor Mountain?
Where can I find shrines to Yeay Mao near Kampot?
Why do people leave phallic offerings for Yeay Mao?
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